The Feisty FIZZGIG - Small Service Dog Ambassador in Training

Service Dogs come in all shapes, sizes & breeds.  Sadly there are people, especially with small dogs it seems, that abuse the service dog laws and bring their growling, snappy, barking, sniffing, pottying pet into public and this can create a very bad image of small breed Service Dogs.

FIZZGIG is in training to help remedy that.  I offer Business Education seminars where I go into businesses and help them understand their responsibilities to service teams under the current laws, but also their rights in terms of removing teams that are disingenuous or creating a problem for their business.  Fizzgig's job will be to showcase some of the ways that small dogs can assist their handler.  

She will be trained in a wide variety of tasks ranging from:

• Hearing Alerts (for phone, doorbell, fire alarms, oven timers)
• Diabetic Alert & Response Simulation
• Seizure Alert & Response Simulation
• Allergen Detection & Response
• Medication Reminder/Retrieval
• Item Retrieval (like keys or phone or any dropped item)

• Wake from Nightmares PTSD Response
• Anxiety/Self Harm Interruption
• Autism Stemming Interruption
• Hallucination Discernment

• Dementia/Cognitive Dysfunction Finds (find the car, keys, phone)
• Contact Emergency Services (Canine 911 Phone)
• Turn on Lights/Room Check
• Go Get Help
• Pressure Point Physical Therapy

Training takes 100s of hours and she is obviously just a baby right now, but I have high hopes for her to success.  She is a focused, food motivated, play driven, goofy little whirling dervish at the moment but that is part of her charm.  

If you or someone you know needs more information about service dogs in general or needs help training for any of the type of tasks listed above - feel free to contact me.  

IMPROVING YOUR DOGS RECALL MAY BE EASIER THAN YOU THINK

MEET BELLA

This is Bella, a 4 month old GoldenDoodle who has been staying with me for a few weeks to work on some Puppy HeadStart basics. In this video, she is practicing her off leash recall. She starts chasing a toy and is able to stop mid-chase and return to me.

Come should always be a fun and positive experience for your dog. Too often we use it gruffly once we get exasperated or to mean something the dog finds negative. We call them to COME when we want them to stop playing, to come inside, to go in their kennel, to take a bath - and all of these things can lead to a sluggish or even non-existent recall.

Think of it this way. Let's say you suddenly had a new boss at work.

One day, they call you into their office. When you get there, they give you a $50 bonus and tell you they really appreciate all your hard work. The next day, it happens again. The next week, again. You very quickly start looking for ways to get their attention through the behavior they have been rewarding and head to the office quickly and happily when you hear your name. I mean - who wouldn't - you are getting praise and recognition for your efforts and a bonus that is high value to you.

Dogs are no different - when we recognize and reward the behavior we like, we cause it to increase in frequency and reliability.

Now say you have the same scenario except half the time this happens and the other half is them giving you a task you dislike or telling you that you are not meeting their expectations. Now you start checking their body language when they call you, listening to tone, looking at their face...you go, but it is a much slower process. You likely still do what they ask for fear of repercussions (in dog training terms that would be a correction for not coming) but you can't trust the situation.

What if this same thing happened but you only ever got criticized or given tasks that you hated? Your efforts were never recognized and you experienced a physical cringe at the sound of your name... Some dogs feel this way about COME.

So how do we change that? It's actually quite simple.

I use a whistle for my students because:

• They cannot get gruff verbally with it.
• It is a sound the dog usually has no preconceived feelings about so it is easy to set it as a positive only in their mind.
• The sound carries well over a distance even in windy weather so you don't have to feel like you're yelling.

You start by simply deciding what sound you want to use - in my case I use 3 short pulses for COME. Some people use a mouth whistle, clap their hands, pat their legs or other sounds. I do find that those do not tend to carry sound as well outside but certainly use whatever is most comfortable for you. I tend to hand clap indoors and whistle outside.

Starting in a quiet space, make the sound you want to use and as soon as your dog looks over to see what it was about - say YES! excitedly. They will probably start to come over to you. Kneel or squat down - this change in body language encourages them to come more quickly. Once they get to you, praise and reward with something they find very rewarding.

For GRYPHON, my Rough Collie for instance, this could be food but given a chance to play ball is more rewarding for him in active exercises so he would get to do some retrieves with his favorite toy. FIZZGIG is a tugger so when she comes, she loves a chance to tug on her favorite scruffy. LUKA, he is all about the food - he doesn't play much so trying to reward him with the same thing as GRYPHON would not work for him.

Here are some 9wk old foster pups working on the same behavior -

It has to be what is important to them - something they are willing to work for, to get excited about and something that shares our joy with them.

NOTICE WE DID NOT USE THE WORD COME AT ALL HERE

That is because it is easier for a dog to associate a new behavior with a cue word when they are ACTUALLY DOING the behavior than us just repeating it over and over.

Say you were trying to learn a new language and you want the word for walking. You are sitting at a cafe and the person teaching you can explain it several ways:

• They simply say the word to you over and over while you are sitting at the table. They may give you other body language cues but generally they just say the word to you. It can be very difficult to understand what they want. Asking a dog to COME when they have no idea what that means is the same. You tell them to COME while they stand and look at you and you are creating an association with standing there instead of one with coming to you.
• The person teaching you gets you moving by either getting you to follow them out of the cafe or leading you gently. Once you start walking - they smile and say YES! and then give you the word for "walking". As you keep walking, they reinforce that is correct by continuing to encourage you and say the word as you are doing the behavior (walking). Much easier isn't it?

SO WHAT'S NEXT?

Once your dog can respond to your sound in a relatively quiet space - you want to start increasing criteria one step at a time. Don't jump from the living room when no one is home to the dog park...that's not fair LOL

Gryphon and I recently played the COME GAME at our local Tractor Supply with a total stranger to him. New environment, new person and he still thought it was the best game ever. If something ever happens and your dog is running loose - wouldn't you rather have them go to a stranger then continue running loose? How many dogs are lost or hit by cars because they just won't go to anyone?

Criteria that you can increase include:
DISTANCE - How far away can you be and they still respond?
DISTRACTION - Different environments, practicing around other pets, kids, inside, outside...
DIVERSITY OF REWARD - Will they recall for a toy instead of food? What about a chance to go on a car ride? What other types of things do they find rewarding?

The basics of this are simple - be that $50 giving new boss you loved to work with above. Recognize effort. Reward success. Pay them well, with things they find valuable and you will have an amazing recall in no time!

SCOUT Passes his LEVEL 1 Test!

This handsome young man just passed his Level 1 Test including extra credits! He and his family have been working very hard at his training on the way to making him a service dog for his Dad. Great job guys!

He sits his AKC Star Puppy test next week and is now working on both his Level 2s and passing the APDT B.A. level of Canine Life and Social Skills!

Congratulations Scout & the Chasse family.

DROP IN LEVELS GROUP STARTING SOON!

Want a PAY AS YOU GO training option?  DROP IN GROUPS are the solution!

The TRAINING LEVELS system was designed by Sue Ailsby and has formed the basis for many service, sport, show and companion dogs training.  This DROP IN LEVELS GROUP is based on her old levels system and has 7 levels to work your way through at your own pace.

Behaviors covered combine Obedience, CGC, Tricks & Manners and can be built on for everything from basic house manners to Therapy and Service Dog work.

DROP IN GROUPS are held at the same time and location every week and you come as and when you can.  You pay as you go each time you come.  You work on whatever Level behaviors you are working on at the time with the support of both myself and others who are working through their own training. 

Each level culminates with a test for that Level, which you can earn certificates and prizes for.  While this is a DROP IN system - RSVPs are required as space is limited.  All dogs must be up to date with age appropriate vaccinations or have a current titer test.

PRICING

1 HOUR Session $20

2 HOUR Session $35 (SAVE $5/session)

More info about this group can be found here:

http://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com/p/drop.html

UPCOMING GROUP CLASS

Want to take a group class with your puppy or dog?  The next one is scheduled for March 16th at Tractor Supply in Bluefield, WV.  Class is limited to 4 teams so be sure to register early to secure your space!

PRODUCTS ARE ARRIVING!

I now have the following products for sale:

FOAM HANDLE TARGET STICKS [top left] - extend to 4' long - comes in Blue, Red, Green & Yellow -$5.00
CLICKER HANDLE TARGET STICK [bottom right] - extends to 13" - $7.00

(Not sure what they are for - read about it here:
http://thinkpaws.blogspot.com/2017/01/targeting-what-is-target-stick-part-1.html)

RECEPTION DESK POTTY BELL [bottom middle] - great for dogs that use their paws - comes in Black or Pink base - $4.00
Shopkeeper Bells for more Nose inclined dogs are on the way!

DOGZILLA TREAT POD MEDIUM FEEDING TOY [middle left] - excellent, rugged toy that is used just like a KONG - $8.00

MINI YUMZIES TRAINING TREATS [main image] - BBQ Chicken, Hickory Bacon, Cheese & Peanut Butter flavors - 5oz bag - $5.00

ZUKES MINI TRAINING TREATS [bottom left] - Savory Salmon, Wild Rabbit & Super Berry flavors - 6oz bags - $6.00

PRODUCT REVIEW - KUUK Vegetable Chopper (for cutting dog roll into training treats)

My first official product review!  I saw on Facebook someone was using an onion chopper/vegetable dicer to cut dog roll into training treats...brilliant!  For anyone who has trouble with their hands like me, or just wants a faster, easier and less messy way to cut the dog roll down - this is your answer!

USING GO TO MAT TO STOP DOOR DASHING AND TEACH APPROPRIATE GREETINGS

GO TO MAT / PLATFORM WORK is a skill I think every dog should have.

It stops so many issues in their tracks and literally saves dogs lives.  If your dog reliably knows how to go to their place (I recommend a raised bed of some sort) - you can change so many behaviors:

Gorgeous Giant Schnauzer pup - SIRIUS - practicing on his mini trampoline

* No more door dashing
* No more jumping on guests when they arrive
* No more going crazy at the sound of the doorbell / mailman / delivery drivers
* No more begging at the table
* No more chasing the cats
* Makes teaching Wait/Stay much easier
* Teaches impulse control and patience

Rocky rocking out his matwork!

Pups are never too young to learn and it is easy and fun to teach.  That gorgeous pup there is Rocky who is staying with me for my STAY & LEARN HEADSTART program.

Here is a look at his most recent training footage for his family (not a how to video).  It is all about choice - and having fun which you can see he is!



You can pair the behavior of going to the mat/bed/spot with a sound that may be triggering behaviors you don't want. Miss Luna did really well with her first attempts at learning to Go To Mat when she heard a knocking sound.

This is a great way to teach excited dogs an alternate behavior for when company comes over.  We are also using it to curtail her desire to rush out the door after the kitties when they are being fed.

I love these particular Pet Cots - easy to put together, washable covers and
durable as long as you don't leave them to be chewed on...LOL

Here is ONYX, a Lab pup working on learning to Stay while toys are being thrown around for distraction.  When they can master this - they really can master changing any of the above mentioned behaviors!


Not sure where to start - join me in my ONLINE CLASSROOM for a 4 wk FASTRAK FOCUS course on this or as part of many of the other classes offered there.

SAMPLES ARE ARRIVING!

When Tractor Supply and I started working together to offer local group classes, I reached out to several pet food/treat vendors to see if they wanted to provide samples for our group Swag Bags and the response has been wonderful.  There is nothing like coming home to see packages waiting for you!  A full thank you list is coming!

TARGETING - HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG TO USE A TARGET STICK? (Part 2 of 3)

Jean from Dog Trick Academy has done a great video on introducing your dog to the target stick.  You can see the whole lesson HERE.

HOW TO STUFF and USE A KONG or KONG WOBBLER

As I was prepping KONG toys for the furkids,  I realized not everyone knows about these great options for Doggie Brain Games and Mental Stimulation exercises.

WHAT IS A KONG EXACTLY?

KONG itself is a company that makes a great range of toys for dogs but many people refer to other types of similar toys by the same name. Generally these are made of rubber or a similar polymer and you can fill them with kibble or treats for a dog to get out.

WHY WOULD YOU STUFF ONE?

Stuffable toys like KONGS can serve many purposes:

• Mental Stimulation - dogs that are easily bored, hyper or need daily challenges can really benefit from this type of enrichment.
• Slow Down - some dogs eat far too quickly and inhale their food and this is one of many great options to slow them down, reducing the chances of complications like choking or bloat.
• Confidence Building - winning at this game can provide dogs that are insecure or anxious with a well deserved confidence boost for interacting with their environment.
• Crate Destressor - some dogs are stressed by their handlers leaving for the day and giving them a puzzle like this is a great way to take their mind off of the act of the handler leaving and refocus it to a positive - dogs with anxiety disorders may not be able to redirect, but a dog that is simply fussy can often come to see this "prize" as a real highlight and begin to look forward to their daily crate time.
• Variety - This type of toy breaks up the day for any dog and gives you a chance to offer different types of food/reward in a controlled exercise.

SO HOW DO YOU USE IT? WHAT DO YOU USE TO STUFF IT?

There are lots of recipes that you can use,  and a lot of Kong type toys, but the most basic process is to use it to feed meals with basic kibble and a stopper of something like peanut butter, canned dog food, cream cheese or canned pumpkin. Having said that, I know people who use banana, mashed potato or even raw meat pieces to fill the end. It depends on what your dog finds rewarding!

You can also mix things into the kibble part itself like dry treats,  apple or carrot slices or cheese cubes (but I will say the cheese tends to clump the kibble together and if your dog isn't determined enough it can just frustrate them).

GETTING SETUP

• Toys to Fill 
• Kibble 
• Peanut Butter
• Cream Cheese
• Treats 
• Apple or Carrot 
• Cheese 

Putting down a section of cling film makes this much easier.   It stops anything falling out and creating a mess in your freezer. 

WHY FREEZE?  

A frozen Kong lasts longer, presents more of a challenge and can help teething puppies gums feel better. 

FILLING

If the toy has a small hole on one end,  like a standard Kong,  you will not need to do anything except fill it with kibble and a stopper of your choice. 

If you are using another type of toy like the Kong Dental or Dogzilla toys,  with a larger hole on both ends,  you want to cover one of the holes with your filler first. I am using peanut butter or cream cheese here. Once you fill that hole,  turn the toy upside down on the cling film and fill with kibble.   (If you are using apple or carrot,  put that in first then fill the kibble to the top around it. 

Taking too long or making a mess with the kibble?  If it is small enough kibble,  use a funnel... 

Don't have a funnel?  Take a sheet of paper and roll into a funnel-like shape... 

Don't have a piece of paper?  Ummmmm... That is probably beyond the purview of this article. 

So you have the Kong full - now just cap the remaining hole with your choice of filling, pull the cling film up/around it and freeze overnight. 

You don't need to let them thaw first - the whole point is to have the dogs work for it so give it to them straight from the freezer. Check the specifics of each toy, but in general, hot soapy water is enough to clean them or a occasional run through the dishwasher is fine for most of them. 

KONG WOBBLERS

Wobblers are like giant Weeble Wobbles - they weeble and they wobble and they throw food around...but that's half the fun!  Unlike the other KONG type toys, these are a hard plastic with a weighted bottom, not rubber. 

All you need to do for this is twist off the bottom and fill the toy with kibble. They do come in a few sizes (the pink and blue are Puppy ones).  Make sure your kibble is small enough to come out of the hole otherwise you get a frustrated doggie slamming the toy into your walls! 

Normally you wouldn't add anything over the hole in these but some dogs struggle with how to get started. When I first gave this to a recent boarding pup, he looked at me like - "What am I supposed to do with that"?  LOL   I added some peanut butter to give him a headstart and after the first session, he didn't need any filler - just his kibble.

Then there are other dogs, like Barrow here that get it straight away.

Either of these options can be a great way to help your dog learn some problem solving skills, keep them entertained for awhile and offer a novel approach to feeding time. They'll thank you for it!

BABY FOOD TRAINING DOTS

While we are on the subject of treats - here is a super simple recipe using only three ingredients to make a ton of healthy training treats...my guys give it 2 Paws Up!

CGC TEST VIDEO EXAMPLE

Here is a great short video showing exactly what the CGC test entails - if you are considering getting this certification with your dog - this should help clear up any concerns!

Remember - Walk In Testing is available on the first Thursday of every month and CGC classes run on a regular basis.  Just ask for more details!

NEW TRAINING SUPPLY PACKS HAVE ARRIVED!!!

During our sessions it is almost guaranteed I will mention something product or book wise that you will want to follow up on - no problem - they are all on my SHOP page. But this year I have also added training supply packs for your convenience - everything you need all in one place.

What size pack is right for you? 

That really depends on how far you are going with your training.  The Woof & Wag Pack covers all your basics but if you plan on doing more advanced work like Platform or Mat training, advanced targeting and more Distance & Distraction work - then the Totally PAWsome Pack is the answer.

WHY MY DOGS DON'T KNOW "NO!"

Article Source: Four Feet & Food

A friend and I were recently walking out my front door while my dog, Kona, was close at our heels. She turned around and told him “no”. I told her that word means nothing to him and asked him to “back up” instead (a behavior he knows well). This sparked the conversation of “you’re a dog trainer, how does your dog not understand the word ‘no’?” My simple answer is “because he’s never been taught what that means”.

Dogs are not born with an inherent knowledge of the human language or culture. Can they learn a word by the context in which it is delivered? You bet! But it’s up to us to attach some useful information to that word to help them navigate our world where we expect them to live within our expectations. If I yelled “no!” at Kona in a stern tone would he immediately stop what he was doing? He might stop in that instant but what is he supposed to do after that? It’s not really fair for me to tell him to stop doing something without providing any follow up information.

How many of us have had this conversation with our significant other:

You: What do you want for dinner? 
SO: I don’t know. What do you want? 

You: How about Chinese food? 
SO: No. 

You: Ok, how about Mexican? 
SO: No. 
You: Then why don’t YOU pick something! 

It’s frustrating when someone tells you “no” without providing an alternative isn’t it? Without any additional information you don’t know what to do next. Is he/she saying “no” to Chinese food because they aren’t hungry or because they don’t like Chinese? Did they just eat Mexican for lunch and don’t want it again for dinner? WHAT DOES IT MEAN?? Without any additional information you have no idea what to do next! It’s the same for our dogs. “No” doesn’t hold any weight unless you’ve associated a meaning to it for a specific behavior.

It is very common for us humans to think “no” can be just a blanket term for “stop what you’re doing this instant” (and don’t do it again) but in reality, most dogs have no idea what that means and are just responding to the tone of our voices. I have taught my dogs many useful behaviors that are all on cue, meaning they have a word or signal attached to them. I have taught them to problem solve and to respond to my cues. I taught them all of this through positive reinforcement training based on mutual trust and respect.

I have never had the need to teach my dogs “no” because it has no use in our relationship. Do my dogs do things on occasion that I might not like? Of course! But that’s where the other behaviors they know come into play. I will discuss some alternate behaviors you can teach to prevent unwanted behaviors in a follow up post. In the meantime, if anyone has a solution to the ongoing “what do you want for dinner?” debate with your SO, please share in the comments!

BREAK THOSE WINTER BOREDOM BLUES WITH 33 GREAT GAMES FOR DOGS

With winter upon soon - it is time to start thinking about how best to entertain your furry friends out of the mud and slush. Here is a great article to give you plenty of ideas to get started!

33 Simple Ways to Keep Your Dog Busy Indoors

SERVICE DOG TRAINING - WHERE TO START?

SERVICE DOGS need a great foundation of Obedience to handle the various situations they face daily. This series of 3 class levels - designed by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers - is a perfect start to that.  
It is also a great place to start for Therapy Dogs or dogs that intend to do their CGC certification.

Each level (BA, MA & PHd) is taught over a 8 session period with an exam at the end. You can do this in Private Sessions, Group Classes or through our Online Classroom.

Student Handbooks will be provided and of course you can always reach us on the think PAWsitive FACEBOOK page if you have any additional questions!

PRIVATE SESSIONS - Taught at your place, at your pace!   $420
ONLINE CLASSROOM - Learn and home and connect with me Online   $199
GROUP CLASS - If you are local, I offer this class at TRACTOR SUPPLY in Bluefield, WV    $149

⭐⭐  FLASHCARDS ARE AVAILABLE FOR THIS CLASS   $15 + shipping (if not local)  ⭐⭐ 

Bachelors (BA) Obedience Training

(The first level is recommended for dogs 9+ weeks old)
Here are some of the key commands and concepts you and your dog will learn in this fun and interactive class:

Warm Up -- Showing a dog how to investigate a new situation comfortably and potty on command.
Loose Leash Walking -- Most pet owners really appreciate a dog that walks nicely on a leash without pulling. Positive training and proper equipment is key.
Attention -- Teaches your dog to pay attention to you and not be bounding off after squirrels or cats.
Wait at the door -- The ability to maintain position at the door until invited to move through the door.
Meet and Greet -- The importance of having your dog wait comfortably at your side while you chat with a friend - with or without another dog present -shows the dog self-control and patience.
Leashing Up Manners -- Teaches your dog to sit quietly until released while you put on or take off his leash.
Leave it -- Refers to his muzzle; learn to put his attention back on you and away from something else that he is interested in.
Come -- Probably the most critical command to teach but can be started at an early age. This command provides a great opportunity to bond with your dog!
Wait for the food bowl -- Rather then grabbing for or rushing for the food bowl, this shows the dog's self control around a very valuable resource.
Stay -- Stay means don't move a muscle until I release you. This command can save a dog's life.
Settle -- A dog who can calm down on cue is more welcome in society and other's homes.
Give and Take -- A dog who will willingly give up valued toys or food to anyone is a dog you would trust around your children.

CRATE TRAINING 101